Kicked right in the junik!

Discussion in 'Mechanical & Technical' started by idgsxr1k, Jun 6, 2006.

  1. So those of you who have been around the last few weeks know that I have been frantically tracking down parts and tools to get my bike finished before the AMA races next weekend. Thus far it has been a 1 step forward 2 steps back process. So today I get this phone call from the painter who has all my fairings he is buffing out a couple of scratches and touching up the rock chips and scratches on the lowers and upper. Apparently last night while buffing he knocked my upper off the table and it must have landed just right to put two cracks in it. One at the bottom by the headlight and one up top by the windscreen. the rest of the conversation with the painter went alot like this :argue: :banghead: :comp: :up_yours:. So Im past that now next order of business find a new upper ebay search begins painters for $130 not bad price location Florida not gonna work. Brand new OEM already painted $310 location Florida. By the time that gets here I will have no time to test ride and would be lucky just to have it all together by next Friday. Painter is going to try and repair it, I have never seen a truley good repair job on fairings that you cant see blemishes or paint differences Im not riding a stunter for hells sake. I think its got to do with the whole 666 day. :devil:
     
  2. Tanman

    Tanman Moderator

    Dude, that's rough. I'm sure it will turn out ok.
     

  3. It better or I am going on a mad killing spree. :devil:
     
  4. next time I see my buddy Roy, ( the one that races nos bikes at firebird) I'll ask him for the number to his painter,, her work looks great..
     
  5. Hozhead

    Hozhead <img src="/images/ranks/site_founder.gif" alt="BRN

    Ron Ayers:
    $275.74 plus shipping.
    Shipping is only $17 if you want it to arrive on the 20th. It jumps to $43 if you want the part by the 16th and $145 if you want it by June 14th. DAMN!!!

    http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?searchstring=94410-18G00-YBA

    I'd still call them tomorrow since they plan for 4 business days of processing. A phone call might be able to speed that along.


    Bike Bandit:
    $354.26 plus shipping.
    These guys are much faster than Ron Ayers but you'd still want to call to confirm a date.
    They claim to ship most orders within 3 days. With express delivery, you could have it in 5 business days. Express delivery is only $20.
     
  6. I've had good luch with painters too. :dblthumb: :finger: not :devil: they should all quit pretending to be painters or just pretend to goto hell
     
  7. Big Twin recommended Portner Auto Body to me, so I had them paint a couple of small pieces (just paint, no repairs). They did a good job and finished it much faster than they estimated. They are sort of behind the Harley shop in Garden City.
     
  8. then i will try them next time. i will buy new parts let them fix the old ones and just sell them to someone on ebay.
     
  9. Ron Ayers doesnt have the part in stock so it will take at least 4 days for them to get it and then 4-5 to get it to me ??? That doesnt fit the time frame i need I guess I will be trying to fix mine for now!!
     
  10. check flatout too. They are the guys that got my inner fork tube here in 2 days when they didnt even have it in stock... shipping cost me an extra 60 bucks.


    http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/

    Call them to find out if it is in stock, ask for Chris. IIRC he is at the greenwood number, and hed probably appreciate you having the part number handy when you call. Just tell him the timeline is a concern.
     
  11. Hozhead

    Hozhead <img src="/images/ranks/site_founder.gif" alt="BRN

    Good call. I checked their site. They list it for $260. If they can get it here quickly, it could work for him.
     
  12. have you ever plasti welded with a torch, a flathead screw driver, and some staples? its a LOT easier than it sounds. All you need is a cheap propane torch (acetilene (sp?) is better, just takes less time) an old flat head screw driver that is sturdy, and some largish roofing staples. cut the staples into thirds, untill you have enough to cover the crack going in a /\/\/\/ pattern down it. heat up your screw driver, place a staple where you need it (on the back side is DEF. a good idea) and slowly press on the staple allowing it to heat. when it gets hot enough it will sink in fairly fast so be ready for it. after it sinks in, you can drag the tip of your driver across the hole the staple just made, smoothing it out a bit. continue on down in a stitch pattern untill your crack is secure. sand out the paint side a bit to get it smooth, and paint.... wallah... its done.


    ill try and throw the link in here in a minute... got some pics from the guy who taught me how to do it, and his look GOOOOD...

    EDIT** heres the link to the pics :p
    http://www.cbrforum.com/m_3079/tm.htm


    scroll down a few posts and he goes into more detail about taping the paint side an all that... hes way better at explaining than me
     
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